A City Break in Vilnius: Lithuania’s Green and Gracious Capital

Vilnius wasn’t a place we had dreamt about for years. It came to us quietly—an affordable spring escape, somewhere new to explore. But what we found in Lithuania’s capital surprised and delighted us: a city of lush greenery, cobbled charm, and quiet confidence. After just three days, we both agreed—Vilnius might just be our favourite city in Eastern Europe.

It’s a place where tree-lined boulevards lead into baroque courtyards, where hilltop views are just a short stroll away, and where you’re never far from a cup of carefully brewed tea. Add in clean streets, a calm and unhurried atmosphere, and a historic old town that feels lived-in rather than overly touristy, and you have all the ingredients for a perfect city break.

Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions

Our early morning flight from Oslo landed in Vilnius just after 10am—half an hour ahead of schedule. From the airport, we hopped on the 3G bus heading to Fabijoniškės and got off at Žaliasis tiltas, just a short walk along the river from our hotel. The journey took around 20 minutes and cost only €0.90, with buses departing right outside the terminal. Simple, efficient, and budget-friendly—very Vilnius.

After checking into the Courtyard Vilnius City Center, a modern hotel with views of Gediminas Hill, we took a gentle walk across the Neris River into the Old Town, soaking in the spring sun and soft cityscape.

Lunch was at Pirmas Blynas, a social enterprise serving delicious savoury and sweet pancakes, staffed by people with disabilities. It was warm, welcoming, and a perfect introduction to the heart Vilnius seems to wear on its sleeve.

From there, we wandered into the quirky and free-spirited Užupis District—a self-declared “republic” with its own constitution, wall plaques, and bohemian flair. Though compact, its artistic energy and riverside charm made it a memorable stop.

While in the Užupis District, we stopped for a restorative cup at Yugen Tea, a tea house I had bookmarked in advance. Minimalist and serene, this beautiful space specialises in premium Japanese tea—from matcha to gyokuro—served with quiet elegance. Soft ambient music played through the speakers, creating a tranquil atmosphere that felt worlds away from the usual bustle of a capital city.

The mood shifted at the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights, housed in the former KGB headquarters. Sobering and important, the exhibits offer a harrowing glimpse into Lithuania’s 20th-century struggles under Soviet rule. We walked through prison cells, saw the chilling torture chambers, and even stood in the execution room where political prisoners met their tragic fate. The museum’s detailed displays and personal testimonies brought to life the stories of those who resisted oppression. It was a powerful reminder of the resilience of the Lithuanian people.

We ended the day of exploration with a stroll through Cathedral Square and a short hike up to Gediminas Tower before dinner. The views from the top—sweeping across the city’s rooftops and forests—was a nice reward.

Dinner was at Etno Dvaras, a popular spot for traditional Lithuanian cuisine. We sampled comforting dishes like saltibarsciai, a cold, refreshing pink beetroot soup, and kepta duona, a simple Lithuanian snack consisting of sliced rye bread that is shortly fried until crispy.

Day 2: Culture and Green Spaces

Vilnius greeted us the next morning with sunshine and birdsong. After breakfast at Beigelistai, where we enjoyed warm bagels and a warm cup of chai latte, we set off to explore more of the Old Town.

We meandered up Literatų Street, with its wall of artistic tributes to writers, past the Russian Orthodox Diocese, and on to the Gate of Dawn, one of the city's most important religious and historical sites.

We then made our way to the Church of St. Francis of Assisi, admired the gothic beauty of St. Anne’s Church, and strolled through the peaceful Bernardine Garden, where tulips and cherry blossoms painted the landscape with colour.

Lunch was a spontaneous joy: we stumbled upon StrangeLove, a stylish café with a surprisingly serious tea menu. Though known for its coffee, their matcha lattes and premium teas (like a smooth pot of white tea) were exceptional. We sat outside in the sun, enjoying a relaxed vibe and watching Vilnius go by.

In the afternoon, we climbed to the Three Crosses Monument, another viewpoint framed by trees and birdsong. From up there, the city looked more like a forested village than a national capital.

Our evening was reserved for a tasting menu at Ertlio Namas, one of Vilnius’s most highly regarded restaurants. Set in a historic townhouse, the multi-course meal told a story of Lithuanian history through food, using ingredients like pine oil, rabbit, quail eggs, and rhubarb. Inventive, intimate, and deeply rooted in place. 

Day 3: Tea, Palaces, and Final Explorations

We began our final morning at KIRAS, a vegan cafe and bakery, where we had another excellent matcha latte. After a slow sip and a quiet moment, we returned to Etno Dvaras for brunch—because some places are worth visiting twice. This time, we went for the cepelinai, potato dumplings stuffed with ground meat, and zirniai su spirguciais, peas with cracklings.

Our final hours were spent at the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, a fascinating museum inside a reconstructed royal residence. The exhibits walk you through Lithuania’s medieval past, and the views from the upper levels tie beautifully into the city’s skyline.

One last stop at StrangeLove for more tea (because why not?)—then a final, unhurried walk through Bernardine Garden, where we sat on a bench by the main fountain, reluctant to leave.

Dinner at Džiaugsmas was the perfect finale—refined, modern Lithuanian cuisine served with warmth and confidence. We went for the fermented vegetables and corn croustade with turbot ragu, white asparagus. rhubarb, and hazelnuts for starters, halibut with green asparagus, green peas, and onion and quail with cheese and onion cream, seasonal vegetables, and marinated potatoes for mains, and the brown butter ice cream with dandelion root mousse, hazelnut panna cotta, and almond crumble for desserts.

After picking up our bags from the hotel, we caught the bus back to the airport and stocked up on our new favourite Lithuanian liquors at duty free. Our flight back to Oslo left Vilnius at 22:50 and arrived—true to form—20 minutes ahead of schedule.

Final Thoughts

Vilnius is a city that doesn’t shout. It welcomes you quietly—with clean streets, endless greenery, and a rhythm that invites you to slow down. It feels deeply liveable, walkable, and real. There’s history in its stones, poetry in its parks, and a genuine care for quality—especially if you know where to stop for tea.

If you’re looking for a city break that balances cultural depth with nature and beauty with simplicity, Vilnius might just be your next favourite too.